Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale have taken over Lanvin, heading a new team of designers to temporarily replace Alber Elbaz, after a 14-year run. The pair will also design the Fall 2016 runway show until a new Creative Director has been appointed.
Kamali delivered a flamboyant, risky Lanvin Pre-Fall 2016 collection with a different aesthetic than the characteristic and familiar looks we have grown accustom.
“Our focus is on the Lanvin woman, who she was and who she could be,” Kamali said, “but the evolution of the house, as well. It’s about finding a balance between the fundamentals but also thinking of who that woman is today. How can you inject that dose of authenticity?”
The velvet pants of a suit were cut generously; the proportions of a herringbone overcoat were mannish; and a Japanese polyester jumpsuit erupted with bows. Shirts and dresses featuring plastrons trimmed with deep ruffles showed her background at Chloé. Patchwork in men’s necktie fabrics worked into appealing blouses and dresses, and furs.
Accessories were rich exposing the House’s iconography, employing the Lanvin mother-and-daughter logo medallion on some handbags and using Lanvin’s signature blue for bag linings and shoes soles. The collection features mixed metallic finishes and new hobo style bag.