The Michael Kors Fall 2015 collection was runway reality at its most alluring. He showed both languid and tailored, the former in pretty bias dresses and sweater dressing to die for; the latter working that gender yin-yang crossover — tweeds, trousers, crisp shirts and especially the outerwear, including a trench-cape hybrid worthy of an ultrachic Sherlock. For all of the above, check the restraint box.

Kors’ fabrics were luxe, but often quietly so — the tony cashmeres and wools, the silk foulards. Not so a gold metallic dress and graphite caviar-beaded gown. And the breathtaking furs. With restraint appropriate to the designer’s premise, they came as cuffs, collars and mufflers, and even as big cozy pockets on a sweater. But at times, restraint went delightfully AWOL, replaced by a huge fox robe, a damask intarsia mink and a fox coat worn over a sweater and lace skirt. This was one of a few looks in a gorgeous peacock blue that provided an injection of powerful color into a mostly earthy palette.

“The most interesting style, like the most interesting people, is always a contradiction,” said the designer. “This collection is all about opulent restraint—something that’s composed and understated, and then at the same time, glamorous and indulgent. The rules are gone: day for night, night for day.”