Peter Dundas presents the Emilio Pucci Spring 2015 collection showered in the optimism of summer. Happy and carefree, saturated in the mood-enhancing colors of the sunset.
1970s music poster art spins the prints and patterns, creating a slight psychedelic vibe. Tie dyes stream down filmy chiffon dresses, while patterns of Positano pottery have been knitted into terrycloth tunics. Crochet is reinterpreted with intricated bead work embroideries on mini or maxi dresses. The Lance spearhead print, fresh from the Pucci archives, is newly colored and engineered in jersey, gauze or cotton voiles.
The mood may be mellow but the workmanship is dizzyingly intricate. Cut crystal embroideries echo the prints and crack across tops or dresses like shards of glass. Leather has been worked into chain mail configurations, punched with studs and trimmed in thick tufts of shaved leather fringe. Intricate threadwork and silver cabochons create vibrant Pucci florals that crawl over suede coats, cotton blouses or crisp guipure macramé dresses.
Easy, sporty pieces for warm summer days and hot nights mix with the precision of sharp 1970s tailoring. Lean jackets and skinny flared trousers come in a sturdy linen silk canvas with double stitching. Washed cotton silk voile peasant blouses, and hippy dresses contrast with clean late 60s sportswear. Cheerful mango, peach, pomme verte and poppy red casually mingle with sober military army green, and cognac tan.
For evening, the mix of casual and formal creates a breezy, but captivating look. Transparent printed chiffon maxi dresses graze over jewel-like, beaded swimwear. Clouds of printed silk gauze dresses are suspended from silver or gold metal necklaces. Cotton voile ladder embroidery dresses are appliqued with swirls of colored tulle and reinforced with feather light beading.
Suede shoes and boots come with Perspex heels, while gladiator sandals are adorned with maxi mirror studs. Slouchy shoulder bags in fringed suede, serpent and crocodile finish off the look in a casually luxurious way.