For the Isabel Marant Spring 2014 collection, “It’s the contrast of two ideas that I’m always trying to work with,” said the designer.

The first look out put that statement into motion, with its strong-shouldered black jacket counterpointing a not-much-longer lacy white slip of a dress. In other instances, Marant paired her frothy white tops (like designers elsewhere, she’s embraced the ruffle) with black leather. Side-laced leather pants looked edgier than usual for her. But for every step she took toward the dark side, Marant took another into the light. Painterly blooms on frilly chiffon looked positively sweet. Then, again, by the end of the collection she was back into the grommets and sequins. Grommets covered the season’s new shoe, a suede Mary Jane/bootie hybrid that didn’t quite work. The collection’s lasting impression was of a baby pink ruched and ruffled jacket paired with sexy white eyelet jeans. Sweet, but with a serious bite—that’s the essence of Isabel for Spring.