The Tibi Resort 2020 collection started with a trail of observations on how clothing should make us feel. Designer Amy Smilovic started with color and the palette of black, taupe, electric yellow, lilac, and sage. She researched how colors are described to the blind and was fascinated by the results. To understand blue, they were asked to run their hands under cool water. Brown’s rich, natural hue was intuited by touching the earth and soil.

Resort had a particular emphasis on tailoring, likely a by-product of Tibi’s menswear line that debuted for Spring 2019. In lieu of the ultra-oversized blazers of seasons past, her team focused on classic construction then migrated some interior details to the exterior of jackets. Shoulder pads were placed like epaulets, for instance, and from the back a few exposed seams lent the impression of flipping the jacket inside out. A bonus: Many of those blazers and coats, like a blue-and-green checked style, came in an entirely recycled blend she found in Italy.

Elsewhere, Smilovic expanded on two opposing signatures: her best-selling sequined party dresses and her industry-favorite utilitarian jumpsuits.