Narciso Rodriguez perfects tailored styles and sharp silhouettes for Spring

Twenty years ago when Narciso Rodriguez began his independent label, he introduced something he called “the new suit,” which replaced a standard issue jacket with a top that zipped up in back.

For the Spring 2018 , he’s resurrected the brand’s characteristic suit making it more relevant—precise and well tailored, but not as strict as a blazer. Much has been written about the return of tailoring, but the reality is, it’s hard to get back into a traditional jacket after the comfort of knits. Speaking of, Rodriguez has a pair of slinky knit dresses in black and white with openwork stitches that show flashes of skin and special sweaters to work back to the high-waisted, pleated woolen trousers that are the foundation of the collection. The pieces that demonstrate his famous exacting workmanship are the ones worth expounding on here: a harness-top sheath in a spicy shade of pimento with a sliver cutout at the solar plexus and a bare T-back in black, and an attenuated jumpsuit with a deep U-front.

Discussing an evening dress stitched on its bodice with tiny lozenges, Rodriguez recalled the experiments with different-size beads and the trials and errors of creating different embroidery patterns. He’s never been afraid to do the hard work, and therein lies his appeal.

The color palette is strict with black, white and hues of red making the intricacy of the fabrics and tailoring the high point of the collection.