Dior gets all the love as we get an exclusive look at the making of the Dioramour pump
“Pumps go with everything,” Christian Dior liked to say. For her ready-to-wear Fall 2017 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed a pair of black pumps adorned with a red heart at the back. Their heel is inspired by the “talon choc” that first appeared in 1959, identified by its gentle curve. Combined with reworked overalls, these Christian Dior Dioramour pumps highlight the assertive and audacious allure of the Dior woman of today.
The process of producing them starts in the House’s footwear design studio. Line by line, the pumps are first born from a series of pen strokes in a sketch where their general shape is put down on paper, then in a working drawing in which each detail is specified, before potential colors are set out. This drawing will be the starting point of the numerous steps necessary for their manufacture. Then it’s off to the Dior workshops, a few kilometers from Florence. Here, the lastmaker, with the sketch as a guide, carves a block of wood into a form that will aid the modelmaker in creating the patterns for the leather elements. To do this, he coats the last with a layer of PVC and directly marks the pump’s outlines. The particularity of the Dior Amour lies in the fact that the upper and the heel are made from a single piece of leather. As a result there is nothing to distract attention from the red heart. When the patterns are ready, it’s time for the selecting of leathers, from a choice of more than four hundred different skins. The artisan’s honed eyes examine and scrutinize, while his skilled hands touch, measure, and mark out any imperfections. For this model, he must choose two different leathers: a black calfskin suede and a red lambskin.
After cutting out the leather elements, putting the reinforcements in place and stitching the red heart to the back, he positions the upper – the top part of the pump – on a last made to the exact measurements of the Dior Amour, then steams it. Thanks to the variations in temperature, the craftsman can mold the leather into the required shape. It is an operation based on instinct. He folds in the sides to create the toe point and uses a row of tacks to fix the whole to the insole, a sole that has the distinction of having a metal plate concealed within. Subsequently, the heel is supported by a metal pin that runs through it and further held by some additional nails. In this way, stability is assured. The craftsman positions the sole of the shoe by hand then a machine presses it in one go. Upon completion, each Dior Amour is subject to a comprehensive quality control: its leather, stitching and structure, everything is checked before being cleaned and polished up.
Discover the making of the Christian Dior Dioramour pumps as they show love for craftsmanship and style.