The characteristic fairy tale element is still prominent but for Zuhair Murad Resort 2018 collection, it features a lighter touch.

With a pinstripe hourglass suit and a sprinkling of gold beads, the designer nods to ’40s surrealism, a theme that resurges elsewhere in jewel-inspired placed embroidery. A cinched dress in soft pink cotton eyelet with black trim at the waist and cuffs amps up the romance, while a trench with lace inserts on the sleeves and back provides that wardrobe basic with the designer’s signature femininity. Light cotton dresses with lace inserts give full-on seduction a welcome breather, yet flirty knit numbers with short pleated skirts and ruffle details stop short of innocent. Flowing castle-in-the-clouds prints on peasant blouses or short and long dresses would not look out of place in Ibiza or any other casual-chic resort destination. Neither, for that matter, would the midnight blue pajama ensemble with the star print.

True to form, Murad revisits the season’s fairyland motif in a fully sequined, royal blue gown with silver beading. It’s a showstopper all right. But all-out seduction can be a lot of work. The softer, flower-strewn pink dresses look younger, more grounded, and more of-the-moment.