The Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 collection is inspired by pagan landscapes, creative communities and ancient traditions of Cornwall particularly the “Cloutie” Trees. These spiritual trees are places of pilgrimage, their branches and twigs adorned with colourful ribbons and personal treasures representing the hopes and dreams of those who tied them.
A fluid, elongated silhouette dominated as edges were often kept raw. Medieval armour were deconstructed and reinvented in their softest incarnations. Gold and silver eyelets with trailing coloured lacing, resembling the ‘Cloutie’ ribbons, were applied in a feminine way on delicate engineered knits and washed leathers. The ‘Wishing Tree’ inspired tweed is shot through with bright coloured twisted yarns and chiffon strips of fuchsia, crimson and lichen green. Tailoring and tuxedos in soft black and grey cashmere felt with a discreet leather edge or draped like blankets around the body are worn with wide-legged trousers. Exploded shearling coat and jacket studded with gold or silver biker hardware elements.
Cross-stitching in the collection inspired by medieval needlework samplers from the 16th & 17th century were embroidered on denim, tulle and cashmere voile and finished with silk trailing threads, recalling the Lady of Shallot. Gossamer silk knit and ribbed knit dresses referenced Queen Guinevere’s soft armour.
Silk dresses were engineered and printed in cross-stitch squares with lace borders and a richly worked jacquard with panels of medieval flowers and decorative damasks, defined by red feather stitching, explores the idea of piece and patched work.
A final sequence of silk tulle evening dresses crafted in four different embroideries includes a bullion lattice pattern with satin-stitched medieval flora and fauna motifs within and a dove lace encrusted with scattered tiny beads and sequins.