For the Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2017 collection, color is a language, pure, vibrant, personal, and instinctive.
According to what Massimo Giorgetti explained during his presentation. “I was listening a lot to Radiohead’s ‘Weird Fishes/Arpeggi’ while working on the lineup; it’s one of my favorites from their album In Rainbows. Colors are like weird fish swimming in the ocean’s belly, as if they were a musical arpeggio. It made me think of the original Pucci range of bright shades; for me they’ve become like music for my eyes.”
The designer’s focus is on the eye-popping, technicolor quality of Pucci style, which in the ’60s-inspired styles with a dynamic, contemporary spin, adding an easy, cool, younger attitude to the equation.
The collection features an energy of an explosive color palette, the creative riot of prints, the streamlined simplicity of cut, and the modern sportif accents.
With draping, anatomical cuts, and asymmetries were at play, enhancing the body and the fluidity of movement. The signature Pucci silk jersey is molded into feminine liquid dresses, their vibrant colors an homage to the limitless palette combinations that populate the Pucci archives. Shades of iris and moss, geranium and rust, plum and rope, and peony and Capri blue were lavishly displayed throughout, holding together sporty shapes, whose luxe factor was highlighted by tactile, luscious textures.
Dévoré velvet was cut into a fluid jumpsuit or a roomy caftan; silk twill was padded into a boxy short jacket paired with a matching miniskirt, or it was bonded with crepe cady and lasered into a fitted spencer jacket. Essential forms are molded, pulled and draped on the body. Wool crepe, satin, lasered cady, quilted nylon, and hammered silk are part of the surfaces that give a new context to the staples of a globetrotter’s wardrobe.
Capes abounded, referencing the lightness of the foulards that graced the bouffant coiffures or the aristocratic swan necks of every socialite during the Pucci era. Here they were casually thrown over a jersey tracksuit in bright orange or asymmetrically sewn on a clingy black minidress like floating, colorful wings. Stretch leggings, high-waisted trousers, jogging pants worn with boxy tunics, and a trench in bonded cotton with new prints where floral patterns were given an optical bent.