Picking up where the Italian brand’s Legends and Fairytales fashion show left off, the latest Fendi Spring 2017 collection overflows with rococò opulence. Rich fabrics are featured in glimmering gold, pretty pastels, and French garden florals. Cascading silhouettes get a contemporary edge when paired with sporty footwear.

With utilitarian stripes and sporty knitted sock booties on the one hand, grand baroque brocades and lingerie silks on the other, the result was a curiously creative collection full of softness and sophistication.

Ribbon-tied aprons of elaborate gilded fabric over gathered pants and applied leather flower embroidery onto a khaki jacket and a trenchcoat segued from a take on this season’s sheer floral-print dress to apricot ’20s-style silk lingerie-like pieces with cut-out butterflies on their bodices. Among all this there were inimitably Lagerfeldian organza blouses with scalloped edges running around the shoulders and sleeves—the sort of thing he has been designing his entire career, reprised with spot-on timing to catch the current exaggerated-sleeve silhouette.

Meanwhile, all this made a great showcase for the all-important Fendi accessories with little frame bags featuring chunky whipstitching, brocade flower-decorated guitar-style straps, rosebuds, hand-drawn loopy doodles, and much more. The knitted sock boots also had a lot going on. Some were striped, some were athletic-seeming, and one particular pair was laced-up with scattered satin flower embroidery.

From fittings to line up, watch the highlights from the Fendi Spring 2017 runaway show backstage.