Fluttery hemlines, razor-sharp raincoats, and sunny pastels ruled the Mulberry Spring 2017 runway show at London Fashion Week. Johnny Coca, who became the brand’s Creative Director in 2015, has been doing his utmost to resuscitate the brand that once ruled the global handbag roost.

The collection drew inspiration from the uniforms of British society, but mixed and juxtaposed them. Ruffle details were sliced free, displaced, and animated around the body, to give formerly utilitarian classics a modern, poetic twist.

Military shapes transformed with embroidered crystals and jet black florals, regimental stripes filled with irreverent symbols such as broaches recreating the popular gesture of two hands making a heart shape. Finding romanticism in the rigorous nature of the Scottish and Prince of Wales checks, helped by monumental ruche effects and a liberal use of shiny, fluid materials all employed to create a simple skirt and shirt twin set. The Mulberry Spring collection plays on the brand’s British heritage, between Somerset where the label has its headquarters, and London.

Take a look behind the curtain at the Mulberry Spring 2017 show during London Fashion Week.