The Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2016 collection was the work of the internal team, designed between the departure of Alexander Wang and the first runway show by Demna Gvasalia.

Similar to Balenciaga’s new women’s offerings derive their influence from preexistent styles, although it should be noted that the label has verged its turning point with the introduction of large Balenciaga labels.

The collection was more sophisticated in its use of oversize proportions. One of the references, picked from the time of Nicolas Ghesquière, was an oversize shearling aviator jacket, refurbished with a printed collar spelling out the brand name, a neat trick Gvasalia reprised with the large Balenciaga labels he put on the puffer jacket and anorak in his debut Fall show. It gives that flying jacket, not to mention the Balenciaga logo stoles-cum-banners, the stamp of early trophies for Gvasalia fans who want to be first in on his new act.

Especially in the thigh-high stiletto heeled boots, as it happens—as seen here, printed in the Balenciaga windowpane grid pattern, the archival Vichy check, or in tiny florals on black. Then there’s the hoodie, shot in profile to emulate the Balenciaga concave-front, sway-back silhouette, and, to clinch the case, the flowing lines of a long, voluminous, undeniably Vetements-like flower-printed dress.

Shop the interactive lookbook as you hover over the items of interest and review the details to purchase online.