Creative Director Alessandro Dell’Acqua said he was intent on “breaking the rules” this season with the No. 21 Pre-Fall 2016 collection. By that he meant introducing some random design elements. “Pre-Fall allows for an unrestrained freedom as opposed to focusing on one concept and evolving it for a runway show,” he said.

Romantic accents emerged in silk duchesse dresses layered under masculine cardigans, while metallic inspirations echoed in coats embellished with hussar-inspired embroideries, as well as in wool jackets lined with gold. Casual yet chic outfits such as denim pants paired with oversize blazers were also juxtaposed to feminine silk miniskirts enriched with flamboyant feathers and sequins, as well as knitted sweaters. Enhancing the collection’s appealing mix & match approach, Dell’Acqua also matched a see-through lace and tulle minidress showing a pop starred pattern with a jacket worked in a striped tribal motif.

The collection’s rich textiles went beyond his usual European references. Taking cues from early and modern Peruvian art, Dell’Acqua spliced eye-catching multicolored striped sleeves onto wool coats, updated for the Internet age with fur and nylon inserts.

“Everyone wants lightness,” he said. But for all the boyish touches, the motif that dominated was the bow, a pretty symbol that evidently means business, and lots of it. Oversize silk versions transformed cocktail dresses and all manner of his burgeoning accessories offering worked the motif.