Pre-fall marks one year since Peter Copping’s arrival as Creative Director at the house. He referenced the lineup as “a melting pot of American culture all mixed up to make something beautiful…I hope.”

For the Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2016 collection, there are clear references to the great contemporary American artists, to the surfing movement, to the Hollywood lifestyle and to the Native Americans, in a great mixture of elements that blended together made the collection totally one-of-a-kind.

On his mood board, divas such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and Madonna were the main protagonists.

One could spot the allusions to Navajo culture in a chicly artisanal black-and-white tweed hand-loomed skirt with a fringed hem; to surf in the cut and fit of a bonded tweed jacket; and to the work of Mark Rothko in the dual colorways of square earrings and a rose-and-ivory fox stole worn with a little black dress. But Copping handled the treatments with subtlety. The collection was infused with great range and texture while playing backup to the clothes’ overall attitude of creatively refined glamour.

Copping decided to create variety with bright silk faille glamour gowns were alongside excellent modern evening separates that spanned the grand — an embroidered top and silk radzimir-and-tulle ball skirt — and the understated — an embroidered knit top and a bouclé pencil skirt.

Watch behind the scenes as the House prepares for their biggest season of the year.