He presented a louche ready-to-wear lineup inspired by haute bedwear. With mink taking the place of marabou, the result was revitalized outerwear that will fit into the lives of a younger generation of shoppers who have little interest in luxurious furs as an indicator of wealth.
Chunky slippers in leather, sheepskin and fur worn with slouchy socks underscored the loungy boudoir feeling of the clothes, including a velvet pajama-like tuxedo and a roomy, fuchsia and brown wool jacquard robe coat cinched with a lavish mink belt. The slim pants came in terrific colors like teal, blush pink, and terra-cotta; some had a quirky trumpetlike ankle detail. Asian influences came into play, too, in a series of pieces inspired by the ancient hand-dyeing technique of shibori, Japan’s answer to tie-dye. Geometric and organic patterns painstakingly reproduced in nuanced color combinations lent an artisanal aspect to the collection and an ineffable sense of cool.
There was an emphasis on exotic skins like silver python and supple lizard, and a multitude of interchangeable straps in leathers, shearling, and fur in the new selection of accessories.