The Burberry Pre-Fall 2016 collection had a ’70s slant with lush outerwear, military references and nods to the sporting life.

With the shoe-concealing hems of the flared pants, A-line skirts, high-belted trenches and the capes to the oversize fox and raccoon duffle coat, Christopher Bailey played on proportion and texture with none of the grungy edge of the spring collection. Another thread—traced, literally, through red topstitching and brass buttons—was the regimental one, seen in a caped overcoat with a horse guard’s swagger, and transferred to neat bandsman’s jackets and the detailing on jeans.

Army influences are a natural to Burberry, but so is the way British youth culture has reappropriated the surplus uniform down through the decades also showcased in the collection. With some big, slouchy, practical outerwear, this season featured a shearling-lined parka, a giant olive green leather MA-1 jacket, a roomy red duffle coat. Supersize outerwear is, of course, a street trend and is perfectly depicted in this collection as Buberry includes more casual elements looking fashion-forward.