The balance between calm and drama, and contrast between cloth that’s either draped or energised with functionality, is at the heart of the COS Fall 2015 collection. Japan is a key influence, from the draped layering of the kimono to the dramatic minimalism of the Mono-ha art movement. Technical details, and glacial shades from the photography of Olaf Otto Becker, bring the outdoor life to a collection that plays with proportion, and the way clothing sits on the body.
Gathers from technical drawstrings are taken from functional outdoor kit, creating a waist on the side of a draped grey wool flannel asymmetric dress. The padding of a sleeping bag is reflected in an ice blue quilted down coat, while a voluminous padded top in white cotton poplin comes with random quilting. Nature itself inspires the fringing that sits like terrain on a forest green sweater, or the grey and white brushed wool of a pencil skirt that is like the bark of the birch.
Scale is important, whether it is the length of a utilitarian apron dress in steel blue, or the cloud-like scale of a voluminous parachute dress in navy nylon with a drawstring hem. Trousers and skirts add to the proportions, from wide grey wool flannel cropped culottes, to the added drape of black bonded jersey trousers with a layered half-skirt. Serenity and drama come together when a floor-length sleeveless jersey funnelneck dress matched with the drape of a camel wool polo neck scarf top.
Accessories include a black leather Chelsea boot with a squared sole inspired by old ski boots, and a felted wool heeled sandal also with a squared sole. A mineral grey felted wool backpack has metal bar fastening, while leather is bonded onto grey felted wool to create necklaces, earrings and flat bracelets. For men, there is a winter sandal in grey felted wool, as well as black leather Derby lace-ups. A drawstring gym bag is rendered in leather, while black leather gloves have panels of textured wool, and a felted grey belt is back in black leather.
Discover the COS Fall 2015 ad campaign as other inspirations for the collection include: Tara Donovan; Oscar Niemeyer; Koji Enokura; Susumu Koshimizu, and Oyvind Tangen’s photograph of the multi-coloured iceberg.