For the Antonio Berardi Pre-Fall 2015 collection, the designer but exposed the codes of menswear with a luxurious, feminine twist. Tailored looks were worked in sculptural shapes, such as a jacket and skirt in a black textural houndstooth wool, the jacket cinched at the waist and the thigh-length skirt flared.

The other way Berardi lent his masculine fabrics a feminine touch was with embroideries. Crystals and blunt metal studs crisscrossed a sleeveless dress in a Prince of Wales check.

Inventive fabrics gave the collection richness, as in a red fabric panel woven with Lurex into a 3-D diamond pattern on a fitted dress, which the designer envisioned to look like “molten glass,” noting he prefers to develop his own original fabrics. “I don’t really believe in trends,” Berardi noted. “I work toward [designs] that are really beautiful and hope that they have a longevity simply because the fabric’s beautiful or innovative. For me, the fabric is just as important as the rest [of the collection].”

Discover behind the scenes of the Antonio Berardi Pre-Fall 2015 photoshoot.