For the Céline Pre-Fall 2015 collection, Creative Director Phoebe Philo has been in a more playful headspace. Shown by appointment at Céline’s new Paris headquarters during the couture shows in January, the collection retained many of Philo’s recognizable signatures, from the cropped culotte silhouette that has since been adopted by scores of other labels to the fringing that she began playing with on her Spring 2015 runway.

The news was in its looseness with long-sleeve silk blouses were suspended from the most delicate of straps, exposing collarbones and biceps. Philo did a lot of experimenting here, most of it compelling, but the best look might’ve been the simplest. It was a white V-neck maxi dress with the slightest bit of ruching down the front, as effortless as a T-shirt but elegant as all get-out.