In the Marc Jacobs Fall 2015 collection, everything was planned, crafted and polished to arch perfection. “Last season, it was so about military as an influence but it became cartoony; this is more about military precision with no military reference,” he said.
Within this exacting platform, Jacobs determined to parade the essence of the Marc Jacobs brand. To that end, he reviewed his past collections, selecting favorite recurring themes or specific elements to rework here: trompe l’oeil, dots, feminine looks in masculine fabrics, masculine looks in feminine fabrics, embellished coats, decorative sweats, patchwork furs, sweaters with argyle and heathers created with dazzling embroideries, references to art, Saint Laurent, cartoon characters.
Everything was jeweled, embroidered, grommeted, sequined. The Marc Jacobs Fall 2015 collection featured brocades topped crinolines and lined furs. A tweedy twinset was in fact sequins; an argyle, faux-python embroidery. Shearling was shorn into checks, mink sewn into chevron stripes and worn on the reverse side. Mannish coats flaunted sparkling jet cascades.
The work was remarkable, and the clothes, as fabulous as they were varied and useful — and uncompromising. “Many things are fine,” Jacobs said. “I don’t want fine. I want, ‘I can’t live without it,’ and then, ‘I’d never be caught dead in it.’ That’s better than fine. That’s obsession.” Which sounds like another word for fashion.