David Bowie and Kate Bush both inspired Clare Waight Keller’s Pre-Fall 2015 lineup for Chloé. Together, the two influences led to a charming, boyish-meets-boho mix that played to the designer’s proclivities with just enough glam-rock touches to add a fresh dimension to her oeuvre.
Waight Keller worked Seventies high-waisted sailor pants, which she teamed with a little jacket or knit sweater. Outerwear was a strong point, especially her cool Mongolian-goatskin styles, such as the embroidered and patchworked coat — fanciful and very rock ’n’ roll. Lurex on a pair of fantastic, low-slung boot-cut pants to the Aubrey Beardsley-esque prints and the nub of longhair pony on a bag or miniskirt was a pure example of opulence. Very sexy butterfly wings operated throughout the collection as a whole.
Chloé is usually associated with a kind of virginal, gamine look, but Waight Keller exposed pieces that were more womanly, others rather boyish, and a good deal of them were borderline feral.