Nodding to the Nineties, the McQ Alexander McQueen Spring 2015 collection took a rebellious approach to the house’s signatures — to cool effect. A loose, sleeveless dress was done in a tartan crepe, with the print itself photocopied, giving a distorted effect to the pattern.

The silhouettes were straightforward, and the punk attitude was pretty much to be expected, given that the brand DNA includes that early Lee McQueen sneer. The McQ design team punched holes in crisp white shirting and created a kind of photocopied tartan print. There was also a very interesting Xerox-look denim, and a foil print—a little overused—that had a similar trompe l’oeil effect. The standout pieces were the shiny metallic leathers—a mirrored silver biker in particular—and the sexy knits, which made a quieter yet not insubstantial impact.

Accessories — such as chunky silver platform sandals and soft, snakeskin bags in primary colors — were another standout in this strong collection, under McQ ‘s new design directors Fiona Sinha and Aleksander Stanic.