The Barbara Bui Fall 2014 collection featured statement ponchos draped like pelts and her leather Perfectos, spliced with shaggy sleeves. The designer exposed turtlenecks but then transformed the collection into a night message in which she revisited two of her favorite themes: rock ‘n’ roll and sharp tailoring. The former played out in swirls of shiny studs from jacket collar right down to boot tip; the latter, as a lengthened jacket exposing the thigh and a suit in a neoprene-nylon blend.
In a single coat, lamb’s wool appeared sheared, furry, and fuzzy and had been embroidered to create a paneling effect. On a jacket, strategically placed zippers allowed pieces to be detached, producing a moto-bolero. Of course, it helped that Karlie Kloss was wearing the shaggiest coat of them all; anyone else might have looked like a primate. Along the continuum running from Bui’s oversize cable sweaters to her gauzy side-ruched chiffon blouses, her subtlest tweaks made the strongest impact.