Entrenched in a “real world” perspective of couture, the Maison Margiela Spring 2014 Haute Couture collection opened with a plain white t-shirt dress embellished with a left over panel of Mariano Fortuny fabric at the front and its skirt crafted out of other Fortuny scraps. This use of vibrant textiles and tapestries created by an artist known around the world like Frank Lloyd Wright, Verner Panton or Paul Gauguin gave an instant avant-garde edge to traditional garments like wrap skirts, oversized overcoats or classic wide leg trousers.

When the show wasn’t proposing viable wardrobe options it was making the hearts of fashion directors and stylist beat faster with some “editorial only” pieces destined to live on in the pages of glossy magazines. This included some brilliant tattoo motif beaded embroidery tops and a long vest and silver coat, which were festooned with “junk drawer” finds like buttons, plastic pearls, silver chains and coins.

Breathing life back into discarded treasures is the hallmark of Masion Margiela’s couture line. And in just a few short seasons it has also given the haute couture calendar some much needed vigor.