For the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2014 collection, Riccardo Tisci featured Africa in the primary color scheme, Klimt in the mosaic prints, and Bauhaus in the geometric color-blocking, not only on trouser legs and the hem of a tailored jacket, but also on a fantastic feather chubby, its plumes exactingly sheared to accentuate its graphic lines.

Tisci sees the pre-seasons as a time to reinvent past successes, so there was the Perfecto from last Fall, done here in trompe l’oeil style on a wool coat, or shown on its own in a bright mosaic print. Spring’s halter gowns also got a refresh; the best came in a butterscotch-colored plissé leather with a knit bodysuit underneath. A cherry-red sequined cocktail dress that draped across the torso was likewise reminiscent of his recent runway show.

He’s had a personal fixation with polo shirts since he was a teenager, and they made their first appearance in a Givenchy women’s collection today. Tucked into the cutout waistbands of long full skirts worn with flat men’s shoes, their boxy, oversize shapes were all but camouflaged.